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Topic Summary

Posted by: Plantains
« on: January 19, 2011, 11:38:36 AM »

Yeah going single speed is pointless here. A single speed freewheel is a freehub contained in the mechanism. Also, if you went SS, you could just use your current RD for a chain tensioner.

Going fixed for the winter would require chain modifications. Basically just use two chain connectors and then you can remove a section of chain for fixed and add it for geared. For fixed, just bypass your RD altogether and make sure its out of the way. (via shifting)

The reason to go fixed is because there are no moving parts to freeze up or break. You also get insane amounts of traction control from your legs since you can instantly feel the wheel slip and just ride on the edge of grip the whole time.

As for a wheel, I doubt you'll find a wheel with a cassetted hub and a fixed threadup on the other side without having something custom made. So I wouldn't get into that too much. Getting a nice rear wheel is a possibility though.

@ MArio... yeah, thats an Easton hub.
Posted by: OUWxGuesser
« on: January 19, 2011, 12:13:06 AM »

SBS took care of the hub. Cleaned and winter greased. We'll see how that goes before I try more expensive options.
Posted by: redtailin
« on: January 18, 2011, 02:25:27 PM »

if you want to go SS (keep in mind SS is not the same as fixed), but should you choose to go SS, I grabbed a crappy full squish frame from a dumpster that had a SS chain tensioner on it.  It is a pretty nice aftermarket one, but I haven't pulled it off to determine how operational it is, but it seems to be in pretty nice shape.  If it works and thats what you wanted to do, ill just give it to you

Remember though, that this will not solve the problem of the paws on the hub not engaging.
Posted by: OUWxGuesser
« on: January 18, 2011, 01:40:45 PM »

Options options... my general philosophy on this bike is to upgrade as I go. I have already upgraded to better v-brakes when the originals went on the fritz. 

In an ideal world, I would upgrade the wheelset to something disc compatible and also the drivetrain.   I don't care too much about weight... I just want something solid that works. Is this possible on my current budget... eh probably not. I'd be curious to see what sort of $$$ you think I would need to do this. 

Going singlespeed in the back is also an option that is appealing.  No clue what the $$ involved for that is.

For now, I'll probably dump the hub off at SBS and see if they can repair it. On the other hand, I hate spending $$ to fix something that I would want to replace within a year or two anyway.

FYI the current components in the rear are Shimano altus/deore

Posted by: Mario
« on: January 18, 2011, 12:57:22 PM »

ha, ha, Dave. As you were typing your second message I was typing mine. Check the similarity: "That's actually nice free hub. You might have only two powel. Also there might be springs instead of steel leaves." Great minds think alike, right,ha,ha.
Posted by: Plantains
« on: January 18, 2011, 12:48:46 PM »

Those poinky things are the pawls that cause the freehub to click when you're freewheeling, and to engage when you're pedaling. This is a higher quality model, so yours might not look as pronounced and it might use actual coil springs which will shoot all over the place if you touch them, so watch your eyes and make sure you're prepared to catch them!

Questions, ask... we/I can probably guide you through it well enough if you decide to have a go, and the SBS is only a few mins away worst case scenario.
Posted by: Plantains
« on: January 18, 2011, 12:39:30 PM »

Oh no... thats just the pawls inside the freehub body sticking. Its a pretty common problem on lower end freehubs, and it may just need to be disassembled and cleaned. The reason that the derailleur is skipping is probably because you were inbetween gears, or (more likely) your derailleur hanger is misaligned. The misalignment is pretty common on big box bikes... they'll align it so that it runs very smooth in the forward motion, because it compensates for the crappiness of the rear drivetrain on lower end bikes, but this causes it to catch when pedaling backwards.

Things you can try:

1. Bang on the hub when in the field and you may just knock those pawls loose.
2. Ride fixed gear in the winter. Not only is this a big reason why people do this (less to go wrong) but you also get INFINITELY better control.
3. Buy a new hub or wheel
4. Do a total disassembly and clean and relub the internals of the freehub body.

I assume (no offense) that this is above your paygrade, but if you want to look into whats involved with the process, you can look in our resource thread at both Sheldon Browns website and the Parktool website. Sheldon will have lots of details, and park will have a how to.

In the meantime, here's a pic to sort you out.

Posted by: OUWxGuesser
« on: January 18, 2011, 10:23:53 AM »

Haha true.  Dead in the water may be more appropriate in say... April  :) 
Posted by: Mario
« on: January 18, 2011, 10:20:01 AM »

Well, it might required some specila tool, or it might need just an allan wrench. There is a lot of different ways how companies mount the free body  hubs. Your best bet would be to take it to SBS. Is it really cold today/yesterday? By the way, I would say you were more dead in the snow/ice, than dead in the water  :evil6:
Posted by: OUWxGuesser
« on: January 18, 2011, 10:02:49 AM »

Well, that sucked.  Got 2/3 to school and then I had the issue.  This time, however, I was dead in the water. I was able to shift a couple times at fix the solution temporarily.  Once I got a bit farther, however, I was done. 

Basically, I still think there is a chain tension issue to some extent.  There may also be some freezing going on... the rear derailleur would catch sometimes if you pedal backwards. 

The biggest issue, however, is even if pedaling forward, the cassette will rotate with the chain and not move the wheel.  Once in awhile it would catch momentarily, but then it would slip again permanently.  I'm guessing this is is definitely a freewheel/hub  problem - given the temperature dependence, I assume moisture/lube in there is freezing up and preventing it from catching?

So final question - how hard is it to clean this thing out? Do you need any special tools?
Posted by: Plantains
« on: January 06, 2011, 11:04:41 AM »

Yeah... bottom line is that shit freezes.
Posted by: OUWxGuesser
« on: January 05, 2011, 08:09:15 PM »

Apparently the key is to mention it in the forum and then the problem goes away.  Another problem free commute.  If it pops up again, I'll look into it further, but alas I'm lazy if it is this intermittent :)
Posted by: Sal Atticum
« on: January 05, 2011, 10:08:33 AM »

I gotcha, I had to go read the post again and see that it happened when he was coasting too. :thumbsup:
Posted by: Mario
« on: January 05, 2011, 09:52:40 AM »

Well, like I  mentioned, when he cruzes it does not matter if the link is stiff or not. It's the free body that rotates at all time. Stiff link would couse a click or skip while pedaling. The only situation when very stiff link would couse the slack in the chain is when you pedal backwords, and the stiff link gets stuck in the deraileur.
Posted by: Sal Atticum
« on: January 05, 2011, 09:45:32 AM »

This happened to me one or two days before break...if it doesn't happen all the time, I wouldn't worry about it.  It's up to you to determine how much of an annoyance it is.

Mario, you don't think a frozen link or two running through the dérailleur would cause the same thing?  I only ask because it happened shortly after he lubed everything.  I don't know if the grease would freeze up unless it was really cold that day, but maybe your links wouldn't freeze up unless it was really cold either.

anything
realistic