Almost everything you just typed is "wrong".
An MTB is generally a more upright position than a road bike because of the variance in terrain. Any good MTBer will shift his weight a TON while riding. If you ride in "dirt drops" (thats what drop bars on an MTB are called btw, but they're slightly modified over regular road bars) you generally don't see front suspension on there, and thats because the stability of the bike would be really crappy under compression (stability in terms of a balance between control and traction).
Referring to saddle to bar drop, you'll generally find a racing bicycle (on or off road) with a more aggressive position versus something designed for touring or comfort. MOST mountain bikes will be setup for comfort until you get to about the $1000 marker.
The reason that your MTB is more upright than your touring bike is because it probably is more upright.
This is what a race geometry XC MTB looks like, and you'll notice that the position is nearly as aggressive as a racing geometry road bicycle.
This can be compared to bikes designed for more recreational use in the same genre's from the same company...
But that's sort of an apples to oranges comparison.
In terms of the differences in geometry between the types of frames... I'm not sure there's a good (or short) answer. Sheldon's site is where I'd start. Unfortunately... since he recently passed away, it's sort of cluttered. While the information is certainly there, it's cumbersome to navigate. But I urge you to find something on that site that isn't fascinating.
Other than that, the reason that the answer is long is because there are no standards for geometry, in the same way that there are no standards for the human body. Some road bikes have a short top tube and a long seat tube, and some for the same purpose have the opposite. The most direct answer that I'd be comfortable giving you is to refer to HTA or Head tube Angle. Generally, you'll find a more slack HTA for a more comfort oriented bicycle, but we're talking tenth's of degrees here. Maybe two whole degrees at the MOST, and even this is bad info because a savvy cyclist will look at HTA to help determine toe overlap, and turning circles. But this AGAIN (sorry) gets murky because of fork rake. Believe me when I say though, ALL of this is so far beyond what you should be MOST concerned with, that it's largely just me spouting off bike knowledge for your future reference.
In the end, let me be the first to tell you, you can find your DREAM bicycle on paper, build it with the greatest spec'd parts, and wheels and get it all assembled only to find out that you hate it. I would say that it definitely pays dividends to understand frame geo and the tech related to it, but don't stress over it.
My point with that was you should ride a bunch of different bicycles until you find something that you enjoy. Parts can be changed. Frame geo can't really (well... it can, but thats a whole nother can of worms)
Start by going to the shop in GFK and just ask them to ride a couple of different bicycles. Make sure you write down the year make and model of the bike (get yourself fitted by going to wrenchscience.com first BTW) and then remember which ones you liked the best and why. Goto the respective websites for that manufacturer and find that bike (again year, make, model) and see what the geo is. Compare the geo's with the one's you didn't like and use your brain (and ours) to help determine what you may or may not have liked and why. Then expand your search by looking for more frames, but with similar types of geometry.
Ok... I'll stop now...